Christmas markets in Berlin officially open in late November: here are the most popular locations, the unexpected delights, their opening hours and – most importantly – what to eat and drink.
Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmärkte) have had a really rough run for the last few years in Germany’s capital. As it licks its wounds, Berlin is also eager to dip its toe gingerly back into festive season celebrations in 2022. There will be no shortage of seasonal delights: there are more than 50 Christmas markets in Berlin altogether. Here are the highlights, along with a few surprises.
December 3 only: British Christmas Market
Where? St. George’s Church, Preußenallee 17, 14052 Berlin
Season: 3 December 2022
Opening hours: 2-6pm
Cost: Entry is free
Highlights: Puddings, pies and hot toddies, games and activities for kids and some good old-fashioned carol singing.
Christmas Market on Gendarmenmarkt (2022 Bebelplatz)
Where? Bebelplatz, 10117 Berlin – not Gendarmenmarkt! Change of location due to construction.
Season: 21 November – 31 December 2022
Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday 12pm-10pm, Friday-Saturday 12pm-11pm, Christmas Eve 12pm-6pm, 25 and 26 December 12pm-10pm, New Year’s Eve 12pm-1am
Cost: Entry fee is €1, free for children between 0-12, free admission between 11am-2pm (except between December 24-31)
Highlights: These markets are usually nestled between the Konzerthaus and the stately German and French churches of Gendarmenmarkt, but for the next few years, you can gaze longingly at the Berlin State Opera house on Bebelplatz instead and wonder if you’ll ever get tickets there before they sell out. There are plenty of craftspeople offering homemade wares, all the usual food stalls and classy restaurants serving traditional food. There’s a big stage and plenty of entertainment.
Your last chance: Christmas Markets at Schloss Charlottenburg
Where? Charlottenburg Palace, Spandauer Damm 20, 14059 Berlin
Season: 21 November – 26 December 2022
Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 2pm-10pm, Friday-Sunday 12pm-10pm, December 25&26 12pm-8pm, closed December 24
Cost: Entry is free
Highlights: This one was cancelled during the pandemic, so Berlin was thrilled to see it back in full flight. But there’s sad news, too: 2022 will be the last year for these markets to shine. Shine is the right word, too – they uplight the castle in glorious rainbow colours. It is particularly popular with kids thanks to the rides set up near the Orangerie.
Christmas Market on Alexanderplatz
Where? Alexanderplatz, 10178 Berlin
Season: 21 November – 26 December 2022
Opening hours: Daily from 10am-10pm, December 24 from 10am-4pm
Cost: Entry is free
Highlights: Along with the traditional market stalls, there is an enormous Christmas pyramid, plenty of entertainment, rides galore (but heed my warning below), an ice rink, and a wooden hut for parties.
Tip: Don’t do what Kathleen did and go on the chair swing ride near Alexa way above the rooftops after one too many mulled wines wearing thin stockings and a knee-length denim skirt when it’s negative seventeen degrees. (Frostbite symptoms for a week).
Lucia Christmas Market at Kulturbrauerei
Where? Kulturbrauerei, Schönhauser Allee 36, 10435 Berlin
Season: 21 November – 22 December 2022
Opening hours: Monday-Friday 3pm-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 12pm-10pm
Cost: Entry is free
Highlights: Kulturbrauerei is a charming venue with loads of Scandinavian-themed food, drinks, crafts and kids’ activities. Santa Claus visits every day for the kids. Check out the cool art installation warmed by a wood-fired oven. This is not a big venue and it can get very crowded in peak times. If you’re a parent, think twice about taking your children in a pram.
Bonus: here’s a promotional video that Kathleen was in about 6 years ago at Lucia Christmas markets. Spot the cameo! (Some serious crepe eating going on there).
Christmas Market on Potsdamer Platz + Winterworld
Where? Potsdamer Platz, 10785 Berlin
Season: Winterworld: October 28 2022 – January 1 2023 Christmas Market: November 25 – December 26 2022
Opening hours: Winterworld: 11am-10pm, December 24 until 2pm, Closed 14 November and 22 November. Christmas Market: 10am-10pm, December 24 10am-4pm
Cost: Entry is free but toboggan runs are €1.50 (and if you have kids, they’re hard to miss).
Highlights: The enormous toboggan run is the big highlight, along with crafts, food and drinks galore. Unfortunately, the virus-that-shall-not-be-named means there is no ice rink or curling this year. Sad face.
Christmas Market in Spandau
Where? Spandau, Markstraße 10, 13597 Berlin
Season: 21November – 22 December 2022
Opening hours: Sunday-Thrusday 11am-8pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm
Cost: Entry is free
Highlights: Spandau locals and visitors must umm and aww over the enormous Christmas tree and nativity scene with real live animals. The crafts, food and drinks offered here are very international.
What to eat and drink
Christmas markets are diversifying, as is the cuisine on offer, but there are a few delightful traditional European goodies that will make your eyes light up.
- Mulled wine (Glühwein) is the classic and ranges from organic and sensational to pre-mixed, cheap and sweet.
- Feuerzangbowle is mulled wine with a steady drip of caramelized sugar – it looks like Elsa’s magic ice castle is slowly melting over the top of a magical Christmas concoction.
- Lumumba or Tote Tante (dead aunt!) is a hot chocolate with a shot of something potent.
- Eierpunsch (sort of like eggnog)
- There are plenty of hot fruit punches and teas for people who prefer not to drink alcohol, such as Kinderpunsch (kids punch) or Autofahrerpunsch (designated driver punch).
Bites to make your Christmas come alive
- Kartoffelpuffer – like an enormous hash brown served with apple compote
- Germknödel – a hot dumpling with jam inside, covered with custard
- Lebkuchen – gingerbread. Discussing German gingerbread requires a post of its own. I’ll work on it for next year.
- Marronen – roasted chestnuts. Just like the song promises.
- Raclette – this comes from Switzerland, and it’s an enormous serving of melted cheese
- Roasted pork or salmon in a fresh bread roll – I just wish Germans did gravy.
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Here’s a peek at our visit to the Bebelplatz (usually Gendarmenmarkt) Weihnachtsmarkt.
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